The Battery Level Meter is designed to monitor Lead-Acid storage battery voltage levels for electrical systems.

The unique potted solid state design has no mechanical parts typical of other analog meters, making an extremely durable and reliable measurement system. Also it is waterproof.

A high quality MULTI COLOR LED (Light Emitting Diodes) bar graph displays voltage levels graphically in a fuel gauge type fashion. The use of different colors makes reading and interpreting the display simple, even from a distance. Red color indicates a discharged battery. Orange indicates a battery with acceptable charge. Green indicates that the battery is being charged. Indicates from 9.3V to 14.8V using a ten segment multi color bar graph readout. Small electrical system changes are noticeable at a glance.

The Battery Level Meter can be mounted horizontal or vertical and comes with two face plates.

Most alternator voltage regulators are set to charge a battery between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. The top green bar indicates a battery charging level greater than 14.8 volts. If the top green bar is lit, then the battery is being over charged and could be damaged if this level is allowed to continue (check electrolyte level as this is a common cause of overcharging). If the charging voltage is too low, then the storage capacity of the battery is not achieved, which may shorten battery life.

A typical fully charged lead acid battery should measure approximately 12.5 volts while not being charged and not under load. Lead acid batteries can be permanently damaged if they are discharged below 10.4 volts for any length of time. Since the power draw is low (< 1 watt), the meter can be permanently left on (operating) assuming the battery is charged periodically.

Simple 2 wire hook up. Normally surface mounted - you can use screws or double stick tape. You could cut a hole smaller that the unit and mount it from the rear of a panel to give it more of a stock look.

Ok, so where do I tie it in electrically? While it draws very, very little current and the manufacturer says it can be left on all the time (takes less current than most clocks that are original on some bikes) I'm old-fashioned and I want it off when the bike isn't running. You should use a switched circuit (see your service manual) to tie it into. If the leads need extended to get them to your power source use at least 16 gauge wire. The running light circuit or an auxiliary circuit such as dash lights should work fine. You also want a good ground connection. A bolt or screw that goes into the frame usually is a good choice. Some bikes have ground circuits in the wiring harness that also could be used. Not every bike will get the same exact reading on the voltmeter even though this voltmeter is very accurate. Age of battery & condition, amount of factory/non-factory accessories that are turned on will affect the reading. What you are looking for is your own personal "normal" reading. With the battery fully charged, go for a ride. Get your RPMs up to at least 1/3 of maximum, read the meter with your accessories off (at least the high draw ones like auxiliary driving lights). This is your normal volt reading. When idling the volt reading usually will drop, perhaps even into the red zone (my bike goes into the red). This is normal as your alternator is not providing enough amperage to charge the battery. If you're riding at highway speed and the voltmeter is reading less than your normal volt reading, one of two things is happening: You have too many accessories turned on. You have a problem with a part of your electrical system. This could be the battery (when was the last time you checked the fluid level?), or the alternator or regulator could be failing.

Installation Drawings

(click on the drawings for full size view)

        

Voltage Monitor Installation The monitor can be installed upright or crosswise as both faces are included. Decide where you will install it; you will probably want it somewhat in your lower line of vision. If you have a fairing I suggest mounting on the left side top toward the front where you can see it while still watching the road. Find a circuit that is switched so it will only be on when the key is on. Tie the red lead provided to a circuit that is energized when the key is on. Run the end with a terminal already attached to the "+" side of the monitor. Locate a ground or ground wire close to the mounting location, tie it in and run the other end to the monitor. There is tubing provided to run the wire through and a grommet. You can use the sheet metal screws provided or furnish your own screws /w nuts if you prefer. Turn on the circuit before you bolt the unit down. Apply the correct for your use faceplate. Make sure the hole in the face lines up with the sensor in the unit. The sensor will brighten or darken the display based on available light. There is a tiny switch on the back of the monitor. One position gives you one bar lit up based on what voltage its reading. The other position lights all bars up to the actual voltage its reading. If the engine isn't running when you have turned the ignition on the voltage monitor will be in the red. When the engine is running (idling), it will show yellow or green. When you are above idle it should show green. If you aren't showing green you may have: 1. Overload (too many accessories on; highway lights, personal heating gear such as Widder or Gerbing) 2. Battery problem 3. Alternator problem