Driving Lights & LED 1156 & 1157 Retrofit Bulbs We have repeatedly had requests for running lights so we found a US manufacturer that puts out a quality product at a reasonable price. We have used these ourselves. How much lighting can I add without overloading the electrical system? Both the Bullet & Shorty are available in a number of wattages and beam styles. (details on Order Form) "BULLET" 2 ¼" diameter X 3 ½" long The Bullet is in the largest lighting option category at 2-1/4" diameter. The Standard mount incorporates a 3/8-16 x 1" Stainless Steel mounting stud with "Deck Shoulder" feature for a clean look. The mount is 4-way adjustable with internal wires. "SHORTY" 2 ¼" diameter X 3 ½" length The Shorty is in the largest lighting option category at 2-1/4" diameter. Newly improved mounting system eliminates the "mounting ring" and moves the pivot point to the mounting hardware for a much cleaner look and improved strength. The Standard mount incorporates a 3/8-16 x 1" Stainless Steel mounting stud with "Deck Shoulder" and hardware. The mount is 4-way adjustable with internal wires. (1156 pictured) (1157 pictured) All parts feature "ring" of LEDs that shine outward 180° to utilize stock reflector. This design gives you better than stock brightness and visibility with high vibration resistance and 100,000 hour life expectancy. Available with a white ring for license plate illumination. Bulbs fit standard 1156 or 1157 base which is stock for most motorcycles. (please specify when ordering) Universal motorcycle wire kit, 20A sealed toggle switch (6' of black wire for lights) These are fairing mount or flat surface mount switches. How much lighting can I add without overloading the electrical system? Here's a few things to consider: What size is your alternator? I'm going to preface this by saying these guidelines are based on you moving fast enough that your alternator can produce its maximum amperage, usually over 1600 RPMs. If you're idling or sitting at a stop light you are usually making less amperage than the bike needs for the stock equipment. Your battery is keeping it running. If you have 30 amps, I wouldn't go over a pair of 50 watt driving lights. This way you can still run an electric vest. Even if you don't have any electrical accessories do not try to run a pair of 100 watt driving lights. If its 40 amps you should be able to run a pair of 100 watt driving lights and a Widder electric vest & gloves, etc. at the same time. You could run a pair of 75 watt driving lights and have plenty for full electric heated clothing. If you have 50 amps or more you can run pretty well anything you want. How much accessory electrical equipment have you added? Each piece adds up, that's why we started selling Hyper-Lites as the current draw is so little that even most electrically challenged bikes can run them. Usually driving lights and electric clothing are your heaviest electrical accessory loads. Speaking of electrical heated clothing Gerbing draws more amperage than Widder. Our personal preference is Widder as its well made - my personal electric vest is over 18 years old and has a lot of miles on it. How much more electrical equipment will you add? A GPS, radio, CD player add very little electrical load. This is intended only as a general guide. A rule of thumb is don't exceed 80% of your bike's maximum electrical output. Hope this helps. We Use For Credit Card Orders